At the No Hard Feelings New York premiere on June 20, 2023, Jennifer Lawrence made a deliberate style statement that had fashion insiders taking notes. Beneath the hem of her scarlet Dior gown, she wore a pair of black platform sandals—chunky, utilitarian, and completely at odds with the barely-there minimalist heels dominating red carpets that season.
The Trend She Was Rejecting
For the past several seasons, "quiet luxury" has reigned supreme in footwear. The Row's Ginza sandal, Khaite's minimalist leather slides, and whisper-thin strappy heels from brands like Khaite and Saint Laurent have become the default choice for celebrities and editors alike. These shoes share a common language: neutral palettes, clean lines, and a deliberate effort to disappear into an outfit rather than command attention.
Lawrence's sandals did the opposite. With their molded footbed, adjustable Velcro straps, and substantial rubber tread, they read more hiking trail than haute couture. Yet styled with Dior's architectural crimson gown, the juxtaposition felt intentional rather than accidental—a calculated contrast that elevated both pieces.
The Specifics of the Shoe
While Lawrence's exact pair wasn't officially identified by her styling team, the silhouette closely resembles the elevated "dad sandal" styles that have maintained a stubborn presence in fashion's margins: thick platform soles measuring roughly two inches, wide straps prioritizing function over delicacy, and hardware that skews industrial rather than decorative. Think The Row's Ginza platform iteration, or similar styles from emerging labels like ALOHAS and Emme Parsons that have reinterpreted the technical sandal through a luxury lens.
What separates Lawrence's styling from a misstep is proportion and context. The gown's full skirt and structured bodice provided dramatic balance to the shoe's heft; a slimmer silhouette would have created visual confusion rather than tension.
The French Precedent
This isn't the first time deliberately "unfashionable" footwear has been deployed with sophistication. Emmanuelle Alt, the longtime French Vogue editor, has consistently paired rugged boots and flat sandals with impeccably cut tailoring—her uniform of skinny jeans, blazers, and chunky footwear established a template that prioritizes personal comfort and consistency over trend compliance.
The lineage extends further. Jane Birkin's decades-long preference for simple, practical shoes—ballet flats, loafers, low-heeled sandals—established a distinctly French approach where footwear serves the wearer rather than the runway. Contemporary French women like Leia Sfez and Camille Charrière have continued this tradition, regularly incorporating "ugly" sneakers, fisherman sandals, and orthopedic-inspired styles into otherwise polished wardrobes.
The distinction matters: French styling doesn't attempt to make clunky shoes appear elegant through styling tricks. It treats them as inherently valid, allowing the rest of the outfit to absorb any perceived dissonance.
Why the Anti-Trend Works Now
Lawrence's choice arrives at a moment when fashion's accelerated trend cycle faces mounting criticism. The industry's production of micro-trends—styles that emerge and expire within single seasons—has created both environmental waste and consumer fatigue. Embracing footwear that exists outside this rhythm carries implicit commentary.
There's also a practical dimension. Platform sandals with genuine arch support and stable construction offer wearability that stilettos cannot match. On a promotional tour requiring hours of standing, posing, and moving between venues, Lawrence's choice prioritized function without sacrificing visual interest.
The anti-trend's power lies precisely in its refusal to chase novelty. While minimalist heels may read as "current" for a brief window, their ubiquity quickly breeds indistinguishability. Lawrence's sandals, by contrast, created a memorable image precisely because they broke pattern.
How to Wear the Anti-Trend Without Looking Behind
Replicating Lawrence's approach requires more than purchasing chunky sandals and hoping for the best. The styling intention must be legible:
Create deliberate tension. Pair statement footwear with elevated, structured pieces—tailored trousers, crisp shirting, or, as Lawrence demonstrated, formal gowns. The contrast should feel considered, not confused.
Limit to one disruptive element. A chunky shoe plus oversized silhouettes plus clashing patterns reads as sloppy. Choose one anti-trend piece and let everything else operate as grounding balance.
Prioritize material quality. In utilitarian styles, cheap construction becomes immediately apparent. Look for leather straps rather than synthetic, substantial soles with genuine weight, and hardware that won't tarnish. The difference between "intentionally chunky" and "accidentally clunky" often comes down to material investment.
Consider your proportions. Platform soles add visual weight to the foot; balance this with hemlines that hit at or below the ankle, or with wider-leg trousers that create a continuous line. Avoid cropped, tapered styles that truncate the leg and emphasize the shoe's bulk.
